Why We Keep Breaking the Food Rules

On mothers, daughters, and defiance

photograph: Eldar Nazarov

A few days ago, my young daughter had her customary scoop of speckled vanilla bean ice cream for dessert, cleared her plate, and asked me if she could also have some chocolate chips. I said, “We already had dessert, sweetie. We can have chocolate chips tomorrow.” She pulled an aw man face and began to turn away — but before she did, I realized…