‘The Chiffon Trenches’ Is an Abuse Survivor’s Account

André Leon Talley’s fallout with Anna Wintour is only one piece of the puzzle

Morgan Jerkins
ZORA

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A photo of Andre Leon Talley wearing red at a premiere in San Francisco.
Former American editor-at-large for Vogue magazine Andre Leon Talley attends the “Oscar de la Renta: The Retrospective” Benefit Gala at the de Young in San Francisco, California. Photo: Steve Jennings/Getty Images for Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco

In the epigraph of André Leon Talley’s highly anticipated memoir, The Chiffon Trenches, the fashion-industry legend writes this Clara Ward quote: “How I got over, How I got over, My soul looks back and wonders how I got over.” This woman was a famous gospel artist of the mid-20th century whose popularity reached its peak around the time Talley was growing up in Durham, North Carolina, and the words could not have been more fitting for a man who has had to overcome so much in his 70 years. Much of the buzz surrounding The Chiffon Trenches has been around Talley’s fallout with his former friend and co-worker, American Vogue’s editor in chief Anna Wintour.

In fact, one could conclude that the snippets about their relationship’s demise were what led to the book’s publication date being pushed up from September to just this past Tuesday. But if you’re expecting to find drama in the form of hair pulling, screaming profanities, or wardrobe or furniture damage, you will be sorely disappointed. The book, as its author, is more sophisticated than that. Instead, what you will find is a cautionary tale of what happens when one queer Black man devotes his vast mind and body to the machinery that is any institution…

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