In Lima, Fried Dough Is Both Indulgent and Revolutionary

The dish’s mass appeal signifies the country’s socioeconomic division

Credit: Stephan Knodler/Getty Images

Had I listened to my tía and soaked my hands in water first, la masa wouldn’t cling to my palms like a fragrant, beige paste. I press my fingertips together and try to mimic her swift hands; she stretches la masa into gaping Os and plops them into oil…